Imagine boarding a train in the concrete jungle of London, having a glass of single malt whisky in a leather booth, going to sleep in a double bed, and waking up to the sight of wild deer and misty mountains in the Scottish Highlands.
This is the Caledonian Sleeper.
It is one of only two night trains in the UK, and it recently underwent a massive £150 million upgrade. It now offers double beds and en-suite showers—a rarity in Europe.
Here is why you should skip the flight to Edinburgh and take the “Deerstalker Express” instead.
The Routes: Lowlander vs. Highlander
There are two main trains leaving London Euston every night (except Saturdays).
- The Lowlander:
- Destinations: Edinburgh or Glasgow.
- Departure: Late (~11:50 PM). Arrival ~7:30 AM.
- Verdict: Good for business or city breaks, but you miss the scenery because you arrive too early.
- The Highlander (The Scenic Choice):
- Destinations: Inverness, Aberdeen, or Fort William.
- Departure: Earlier (~9:15 PM). Arrival ~8:00 AM – 10:00 AM.
- Verdict: Choose the Fort William route. You wake up around 6:00 AM just as the train enters the dramatic Scottish Highlands. The last 3 hours of the ride are breathtaking.
The Rooms: Double Beds on a Train?
The new carriages have changed the game.
1. Caledonian Double (Luxury)
- The Bed: A proper double bed. Not a bunk.
- The Bathroom: En-suite toilet and shower inside your room.
- Perks: Access to the Club Car, breakfast included, fluffy towels, posh toiletries.
- Price: Expensive (£300-£400+ per room).
2. Club Room (Business)
- The Bed: Bunk beds (Twin).
- The Bathroom: En-suite toilet and shower.
- Perks: Club Car access, breakfast.
3. Classic Room (Standard)
- The Bed: Bunk beds.
- The Bathroom: Sink in room, toilet at the end of the corridor. No shower.
- Price: Affordable (£170+ for two people).
4. Seated Carriage (Budget)
- Verdict: Avoid. The lights stay on, the seats recline slightly, but it is a long, uncomfortable night. Only for extreme budget travelers.
The Club Car (The Best Part)
This is the heart of the train. It feels like a hotel lobby.
- Food: You can order traditional Scottish dishes like Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties or Scottish smoked salmon.
- Drink: An extensive menu of Scottish Whiskies and Gins.
- Vibe: Chatting with fellow travelers while London fades away. Note: Only accessible to Double and Club passengers (and Classic if space permits).
Rail Pass Validity
- Eurail / Interrail: Valid! However, you must pay a significant reservation fee for the room. It is often cheaper to book a standard ticket well in advance.
- BritRail Pass: Also valid with reservation.
Summary
The Caledonian Sleeper is expensive. You could fly to Scotland for £50.
But you are not paying for transport. You are paying for the experience of waking up in the middle of nowhere, with a cup of coffee in hand, watching the Highlands roll by.
Ready to book? Tickets go on sale 12 months in advance. Chec Caledonian Sleeper Official or compare prices on Trainline.
