There are train rides, and then there is the Bernina Express.
This isn’t just a commute; it is a UNESCO World Heritage site on rails. In just 4 hours, this legendary red train climbs from the icy glaciers of Switzerland, crosses the Alps at 2,253 meters (7,391 ft), and descends into the sunny, palm-tree-lined plazas of Italy.
It crosses 196 bridges and goes through 55 tunnels. It is spectacular.
Here is everything you need to know to ride the most beautiful train line in the world.
The Route: Chur to Tirano
The classic Bernina Express route connects Chur (Switzerland’s oldest city) with Tirano (a small Italian town just across the border).
- Distance: 144 km (90 miles).
- Duration: 4 hours to 4 hours 30 mins.
- Highest Point: Ospizio Bernina (2,253m).
Key Highlights:
- Landwasser Viaduct: The famous curved limestone bridge that plunges into a tunnel. You’ve seen this on Instagram.
- Morteratsch Glacier: You can see the massive tongue of ice right from your seat.
- Lago Bianco: A stunning milky-white lake at the summit.
- Brusio Spiral Viaduct: A 360-degree loop the train makes to lose altitude before entering Italy.
The Train: Panoramic vs. Regional
This is the most common question. There are actually two types of trains running on these same tracks.
1. The Official Bernina Express (BEX)
These are the tourist trains with massive, curved panoramic windows that stretch into the roof.
- Pros: Incredible views, audio guide, snack cart.
- Cons: Windows do not open (glare in photos), compulsory seat reservation fee (~CHF 26-36), often sold out.
2. The Regional Train (RhB)
These are standard red commuter trains that run every hour on the same line.
- Pros: Windows open (perfect for photos!), no reservation fee, less crowded, flexible (hop-on, hop-off).
- Cons: Windows are smaller (standard size).
Pro Tip: Photographers almost always choose the Regional Train (often called the Allegra trains) to get reflection-free shots of the Landwasser Viaduct.
When is the Best Time to Go?
The Bernina Express runs year-round, and it offers two completely different worlds:
- Winter (Jan-Mar): It’s a snowy wonderland. The Lago Bianco is frozen solid. It feels like riding through Narnia.
- Summer (Jun-Sep): Lush green valleys, cows with bells, and wildflowers. You can use the open-air carriages (yellow cars) on some regional trains!
Which Side Should I Sit On?
This is crucial.
- Traveling South (Chur to Tirano): Sit on the RIGHT side. This gives you the best view of the Landwasser Viaduct, the glaciers, and the spiral viaduct.
- Traveling North (Tirano to Chur): Sit on the LEFT side.
Do I Need a Reservation?
- For the Bernina Express (Panoramic): YES. Mandatory. Even if you have a rail pass, you must pay the seat reservation supplement. Book 2-3 months in advance in summer.
- For the Regional Train: NO. Just hop on.
Ticket Prices & Rail Passes
A standard one-way ticket costs roughly CHF 66 (2nd class).
Pass Validity:
- Swiss Travel Pass: ✅ Fully Included (Just pay reservation if taking the panoramic train).
- Eurail / Interrail: ✅ Fully Included (Just pay reservation if taking the panoramic train).
Summary
The Bernina Express is the only train ride in Europe where you can start your day with a snowball fight and end it with an Italian gelato. Whether you choose the fancy panoramic train or the humble regional train, the mountains will leave you breathless.
Ready to book? Check schedules on Omio or buy the Swiss Travel Pass for unlimited travel.
