It is the classic journey north. Leaving London King’s Cross (yes, the Harry Potter station), you race 400 miles up the east coast of Britain to arrive in the heart of Edinburgh.
It takes just 4 hours and 20 minutes. By the time you factor in airport security and transfers, the train is faster than flying.
But recently, booking a ticket has become confusing. You now have two choices: the premium LNER or the budget Lumo.
Here is how to choose the right train and where to sit for the best sea views.
The Contenders
1. LNER (The Premium Choice)
The London North Eastern Railway operates the sleek, Japanese-built “Azuma” trains.
- Comfort: Excellent legroom, reliable Wi-Fi, power outlets at every seat.
- Dining: A “Café Bar” buffet car available to everyone.
- First Class: Includes complimentary hot meals, wine/beer, and access to the First Class Lounge at King’s Cross.
- Frequency: Every 30 minutes.
2. Lumo (The Budget Choice)
Lumo is the “easyJet of trains.” It is blue, cheap, and electric.
- Price: Often significantly cheaper than LNER if booked early.
- Comfort: Tighter legroom. No First Class.
- Dining: No buffet car! Only a trolley service. Bring your own snacks.
- Luggage: Strict limits. You are mostly expected to travel with carry-on size bags only.

The Scenery (Sit on the Right!)
This is one of the most scenic main lines in Europe.
Strategy: When traveling North (London to Edinburgh), sit on the RIGHT side of the train.
Highlights:
- York Minster: You get a great view of the massive gothic cathedral as you enter York.
- Durham: The train passes high on a viaduct overlooking the city, the castle, and the cathedral. It is spectacular.
- Newcastle: Crossing the River Tyne on the high bridges is iconic.
- The Coast (Berwick-upon-Tweed): For the last hour, the train hugs the cliff edge along the North Sea. You can see waves crashing on the rocks.

Is First Class Worth It? (LNER Only)
- Yes: If you find a cheap Advance ticket (around £60-£80). The free food (breakfast/dinner) and alcohol make it worth the upgrade.
- No: If it costs £200. The standard class on Azuma trains is perfectly comfortable.
Summary
- Choose Lumo if you are a solo traveler with a backpack trying to save money.
- Choose LNER if you have luggage, want a coffee, or value legroom.
Booking Tip: Use Trainline to see both LNER and Lumo trains on the same screen. The price difference can be huge for trains departing just 20 minutes apart.

